How to Add Crystal Accents to Your Chandelier 0

How to Add Crystal Accents to Your Chandelier

If you just want to dress your chandelier up a bit, there are many ways to do it.  Here's a few ideas:

1. Add crystal rings, with a prisms or pendalogue hanging from it, to the arms.  For this to be simple, ideally the ring needs to fit over the candle and slide down into the bend of the arm.  If it won't fit over the candle, then you will need to add it from the back side of the arm.  You can learn how to take the bottom of your chandelier in order to reach the arms here. 

You can then drape crystal strands from pendant to pendant if you like. Shown here is our Winter Elegance.

Purchase rings here.

2.  Use thin wire that can be purchased in the jewelry making section of Wal-Mart or Michael's. Wrap this wire around the chandelier arm or other piece. Cut a short piece of wire, then twist the ends into a spiral.  Clip off the excess wire. Hook a prism or pendalogue into the wire.  This is the simplest, least expensive way to add a bit of fun to your chandelier.

3. Using the cute little hand-held, hole punch below, you can punch small holes in stampings and other thin metals.  Then, slip your pin through the hole.

4.  Magnets are amazing!  And we have some on clearance...  Grab a magnet from your fridge and test you chandelier to make sure it will stick. These magnets are strong enough to hold just about any prism.  

Have fun adding to your chandelier or sconce.  

How to Move a Crystal Chandelier AKA How to Dismantle & Pack a Crystal Chandelier 0

You would think "How to Move a Crystal Chandelier" and "How to Dismantle & Pack a Crystal Chandelier" would be two different topics... but they are not!  Ask any chandelier restoration expert and they will agree that the best way to move a chandelier is to dismantle it and pack it.

We believe with our whole heart that if you are removing a crystal-armed chandelier from one location and transporting it to another location, it should be taken apart and packed.  I know - I hear you say that if you crate it properly, it will be fine.  But, it might not be and why take the chance?  

If a chandelier hangs within a crate, it can bang around in that crate.  If it is secured so that it can't swing, pressure is placed on those tension points.  Either scenario can shatter the crystal pieces. And, if you have had it happen, you know how hard it is to match a broken chandelier arm.

We ship thousands of our chandeliers, and we always ship them with the arms removed from the main fixture, wrapped, and packed withing packing pellets.  We also carefully wrap then hanging crystal so that these pieces don't touch one another.

Below is the method that we recommend.  These instructions will work with many crystal chandeliers made within the last 70 years or so.  If your chandelier is an antique, or you think it is exceptionally valuable, please consult a professional.

• Take photos and make diagrams of where all the crystal pendants and strands hang.  Don't rely on original instructions. 
• Lay out your tissue paper on a table, then carefully place your prisms/pendants on the tissue paper so that they do not touch.  Fold the paper with the pendants inside the folds - you will have to be the judge of how many per sheet of paper to use, but you don't want the final result to be so heavy or large that the crystals tear through the paper.  Tape and label.  For example: Prisms for Top.
• For strands, use the same method as above, making sure that the strands do not tangle. Once the crystals have all been removed, you can work with the chandelier without all the crystals banging against each other. 
• Make sure the power to your fixture off!
• Remove the bottom of the chandelier to get to the nuts that are holding the arms onto the fixture.  You can see instructions on how to remove the bottom of our chandeliers here and here.  Wrap the bottom in bubble wrap.
• Disconnect the wiring from the arms.  While holding the outer, heavy part of the arm, unscrew the nut on the underside of the plate that is holding the arm and lift the arm out of the plate. Remove the light bulb and wrap the arm carefully in bubble wrap.  Do this for all of the arms.
• Disconnect the chandelier from the ceiling and remove the stem of the chandelier from the chain.  Wrap the stem well in bubble wrap.  
• Don't forget to remove your chain, canopy, screw loop and cross bar.  You will want to take this with you as it might be original to the chandelier.  
• In the bottom of a box large enough for the arms, make sure you have some good cushioning material: layered bubble wrap or packing peanuts.  Carefully lay the arms in making sure that there is cushion between each and around each arm.  Arrange them so that the heavy parts (candle cups and bobeches) are not on top of one another. 
• We pack the bottom and crystals in a separate box from the arms. 
• Either place the stem in a box or transport it securely without a box.
• If possible, transport the boxes yourself instead of relying on the moving company. They won't treat it as lovingly as you will.

This all may sound a bit time-consuming, but I promise that this method of packing your chandelier will take less time than trying to find matches to broken components of your chandelier!

We will concede that if your chandelier is very small - say 18" wide, you can probably move it without taking it apart.  But, we do recommend taking the crystals off so that they don't bang against each other and chip.  Don't pack the frame in a box - keep it where you can see it.  Simply place it in the seat of your car and place the seat belt around it. And, make sure not to crack it by hitting it on the door frame on the way in and out of the car.  

Whatever you do, do it carefully!

Removing the Bottom of Our Crystal Chandeliers 2

One of our most common "how do I's" is how do I remove the bottom of my crystal chandelier.  We made a little video for our YouTube channel that is linked here. 

Most crystal chandeliers require that you unscrew the bottom in order to remove the arms. Ours are no exception.  It is also good to remove the bottom when doing a deep clean - you can clean in between the metal and the crystal bowl and perform maintenance, making sure everything is tight.

For extra safety, place a heavy quilt or comforter on your table or floor beneath the chandelier and cut the power to the chandelier before you start working. Remove the prisms from the bottom and lay aside. 

 

The bottom should have been installed in one piece - meaning the metal bowl, 2 crystal bowls and finial are all locked together and screw onto the bottom of the chandelier as one unit. 

Ideally, when you turn the bottom, it will all unscrew. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT that you do this carefully and with a good grip on the bottom. When the threads run out, the bottom will drop into your hand, and you want to be prepared so that it does not fall out of your hands. (On our chandeliers, the metal plate is fixed to the pipe - it will not unscrew.). MAKE SURE that the whole chandelier is not turning or you may turn it out of the ceiling!

If the bottom on your chandelier is not unscrewing, make sure that you see the metal bowl turning. You may have to reach in and grip that to turn it as well. Do not cut yourself here. Those metal edges may be sharper than you expect.

If the bottom is still not turning, you may have to remove it piece by piece. Start by removing the finial and working up. HOWEVER, be very careful here - you don't want the pieces to start dropping. Always have your hand on the next piece to be removed.  

These instructions are general.  Keep in mind that chandeliers are built by hand and installed by human beings and are all different.  What works for one may not work for another. 

How to keep your chandelier from falling out of the ceiling! 3

Can you imagine coming home to this? Or waking up to the sound of this happening? If not horrifying, then it is downright disconcerting. It doesn't happen often, and with the following information, it should never happen to you.

What are some of the best practices for keeping your chandelier safely in the ceiling?

1. Always ensure that your mounting location can support the weight of your chandelier.  Is your electrical box properly mounted and secure within your ceiling?

2. The cross bar, pipe, and screw collar of your mounting hardware should be a tight fit, with a locknut fitted against both the cross bar and the screw collar. 

3. The above mentioned cross bar should be securely mounted within your electrical box with the long screws that were included with the box.  

Those 3 steps are what holds your chandelier in the ceiling, so always make sure that they are performed carefully, correctly, and securely. 

4. Never (ever) spin a chandelier on its chain. Actually, don't even turn it. This sounds logical, but believe it or not, it is the number one reason for fallen chandelier. A chandelier revolving on a chain is very mesmerizing - until it unscrews from the ceiling and falls onto your table.  The locknuts are designed to help prevent this from occurring, but they need a little help from you. Best practice - you move around the chandelier doing what needs to be done instead of moving it to you. 

5. Make sure that the top loop on the chandelier itself is secure and tight.  This loop that attaches to the chain is the one thing that is holding your fixture.

6.  Finally, make sure that you are using the proper chain weight.  Heavy, solid chain that is split on the side (never on the bottom) is the best choice. 

Each time you have your chandelier cleaned, the screw loop connection and the top loop on the chandelier should be checked.  Are they tight against the locknuts? 

By following the above practices, you and your chandelier should have a long, healthy life together!

Reply to comment on 5/31/2018:  I'm so sorry that happened to you!  If the pipe came down with the screw loop, the pipe will need to be screwed back into the cross bar and make sure to use nuts to lock it in place.  If the pipe didn't come down, then the screw loop must be screwed into the pipe.  Again, make sure to use nuts.  The proper way to accomplish all of this is to disconnect the wires and start the installation from scratch.  Good luck!  -Nancy

Reply to comment on 7/28/2018 - I sent you a private message.  Let me know if you need further information. - Nancy

More About Candle Covers aka Candle Sleeves 15

Are you searching for new chandelier candle sleeves?

I’m guessing your candle sleeves (aka covers) have become brittle and are breaking.  Or, they have turned an uneven and unsightly yellow.  Or, they’ve burned around the edges.  All of these occurrences are good reason to buy new candle covers.  So, how do you figure out what to buy?

Sizing – How to determine the proper size of your candle cover.

You will need to know how long they are – top to bottom.  Chandelier manufacturers use many different sizes – there is no standard.  Some are easy to cut with scissors or a serrated  knife, but others require a ban saw to cut. We are always happy to cut to size.

Next, you will need to measure the diameter.  Here are the most common diameters:

European Base - 15/16" inside

The European Base (for E14 220 sockets) is almost 1″.  These are not standard in the USA, but if you have imported a chandelier from Europe and are using bulb adapters, the above cover could be what you need.  We do have these available – but not on the web site.  Give us a call.

Candelabra Base is 7/8″ inside

The Candelabra Base, above, is most common.  These are for the small, E12 sockets, and the covers are 7/8″ diameter.

Medium Base is 1 3/8″ inside

The Medium Base socket cover is 1 3/8″.  This size is more commonly used on lamps these days, but prior to the 1950’s, it was quite common to see these on a chandelier.

Safety

For safety sake, don’t put higher than the recommended wattage in any socket, but most especially if you don’t want to ruin your candle sleeve.  A high wattage bulb will turn the edges dark or can even create a fire hazard.

Make sure that the cardboard insulator is slightly above the edge of the cover – this protects the cover from the heat of the light bulb.

Quick Tip

If the edges of your cover are brown, simply remove your light bulb, slip the covers off and turn them upside down.  Slip them right back on the socket so that the burnt edges are on the bottom and hidden.

Material

Candle covers are made of so many materials, but the most common is plastic.  Some plastic is heavy walled and opaque.  Some is not – so make sure to purchase quality plastic. Polymers are also common and frequently used to create the covers that look like wax drip candles. Cardboard is also available – a bit more like the old styles.  And, there are wax covers – which is beautiful, but make sure to follow the recommended wattage maximums so that they don’t melt.  Some more modern fixtures have metal covers, but these don’t generally need to be replaced.

Color

This is a matter of preference – there is no advantage in choosing one color over another.

As always, if we have missed any piece of information that you are curious about, send us an email or ask us here!

UPDATE to answer Elizabeth's question in our comment section:  

To extend a socket, you will have to change the socket out to a taller one or raise the existing one with a pipe under the socket. Either of these methods will require the wire to be longer to reach the higher contact points.  Sometimes there is enough slack in the wire to meet a higher point, but most likely the arms will need to have new wire pulled through. 

If you are lucky, your existing socket will be adjustable and set at the lowest point.  If so, you can loosen the screw holding the socket at the level it is and then slide it taller. Carefully.  Remember, the existing wire may not be long enough. 

Always turn your electricity off when working with your chandelier sockets!